My American was showing

Hasty.

My staff's assessment for me in Uganda was hasty. When pressed for specifics no one seemed able...or, maybe, willing...to give me examples. All these years later and I fear they may be right.

I booked my hotel before boarding the Blue Cruise so that my transfer would be organized for my late arrival to Istanbul. My reservation canceled on me the day I was disembarking. I hastily arranged a new place they suggested in the absence of the one I’d booked.

Yes! I’ll take that.

Only, after the exhausting travel and confusion that marked my return to Istanbul my focus wandered in and out. I wanted food. I yearned for sleep. But suddenly we were in a dark alley. No lights, no obvious hotel signs. I began to panic. Where was I?

I’d seen familiar signs...Taksim Square, Sultanahmet. Those were known places to me. This place was not. There were no shadows because everything was shadows, dogs lounged carelessly beside shuttered buildings. Trash was heaped at random intervals.

This was not my idea of a place to stay.

The hotel clerk assured me the full amount (for four days) had already been charged to my card - I suspect they are accustomed to people's less than receptive response to the location. I launched in, I do not feel safe here." my voice was curt- something I didn't intend. Unease and fatigue were exfoliating my travel presence. Unfortunately, my uncomfortable American was showing, not at all my best self.

I composed myself.

"What is your name?" I asked. I apologize Rayan, it is not my intent to be rude; I am very tired. Please excuse me." Rayan smiled and offered me water. He assured me he would explain everything in the morning.

But here is where the haste comes in. Bathed in exhaustion, I climbed the steps to the top floor where my very palatial room(s) awaited. My previous Istanbul hotel was nothing if not compact. This hotel provided me with two bedrooms, one of the large enough for a couch and room enough for me to spin and twirl if I so desired. It also had two patios, facing two substantial mosques.

I also had the acrid smell of smoke that not only permeated the hallway but all of my rooms. I had a chill in the room and three non-functioning heaters. I had one sheet as my only cover (and eventually an additional one I pulled from the other bed. I had to decide, smoke or open windows.

Smoke tempts my asthma. The open windows introduced me to the neighborhood sounds...clanging of some sort, music blaring. I compromised and traded back and forth once one option proved too much.

I found a slug crawling his way across my floor. Where he came from, with me so many stories up, I have no idea.

I slept- finally. But before I slept, I booked a new hotel for my remaining days in the city.

I woke to a not cold but not hot shower and headed downstairs to the typical breakfast. Only this typical had warm bread and freshly pressed orange juice, no just tea.

In the light of day I probably wouldn’t have had such a visceral reaction. In the light of day I would have noticed the three huge beautiful mosques and been enchanted by the call to prayer launching from one and then then another and then the last…then fading away. In the light of day I would have found Rayan delightful and an intriguing person to talk to and learn from. In the light of day I would have realized how far removed I was from tourist food (I hate tourist food).

In the light of the next day I discovered all of those things.

Courtyard of my second hotel

I strolled around the area, found a magnificent view of the city from the grove/grave(?) of Mehmet Emin Tokadi Hz, a spot where people come to pray. I wandered through an actual neighborhood with mostly Turkish people going through their day. I listened to some music.

Still...I already made alternative plans. And if I hadn’t made them, I would worry about coming home from dinner winding my way - conspicuous as I am - through the darkened street.

In the light of that day…and the next…I enjoyed my respite from tourism, saw what I could see before departing for less personality filled accommodations. Next time, I’ll try to be less hasty....